In a small house, with walls still in plaster, Dona Cruz, 77 years old, lives and works. The simple life in Soure, a municipality on the Island of Marajó, in Pará, contrasts with the type of clothes she makes every day: a Marajoara formal attire.
The piece, usually a button-down shirt, is designed for special occasions, such as parties. Depending on the complexity, it can take one to three days to produce. Each one is handmade in cotton fabric, and has ribbons embroidered with thread, which follow graphics inspired by ancient indigenous ceramics.
Among frequent consumers are political authorities and farmers. After the state governor, Helder Barbalho (MDB), wore the outfit made by Dona Cruz at the Amazon Summit in 2023, demand for the outfit grew.
The seamstress works to order and sends the products via post to different parts of the country, such as Brasília, Recife, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo..
Soure (PA), 09/010/2025 – Embroidery artist Maria da Cruz shows the small studio where she produces nationally recognized pieces. Photo: Marcelo Camargo/Agência Brasil – Marcelo Camargo/Agência Brasil
Such repercussions have not yet been reversed into a significant improvement in Dona Cruz’s living conditions, as the financial gains are modest.
“Usually, what I earn from selling shirts, I spend on buying new materials. So when the customer arrives, I always have something available. I work on my own, without loans. And the retirement money goes towards household expenses”, explains the seamstress.
“The prices of each garment depend on the size. Whether it has short or long sleeves, whether it is S or G. So, it can cost between 290 and 410 reais.” The clear benefit was the possibility of staying active and gaining new knowledge.
“I worked as a school inspector and then retired. When I became a widow, so I wouldn’t be doing nothing, I dedicated myself to shirts. It’s good to keep your head busy and not think about other things, right?”, says the seamstress.
Among the few aids that Dona Cruz received is an industrial sewing machine, from a partnership between the city of Soure and the state government.
In addition, it received a set of guidelines from the Brazilian Micro and Small Business Support Service (Sebrae), within the scope of the Marajó Fashion Polo program. He learned about pricing and sales strategies, improving product presentation (such as using appropriate packaging) and how to access new markets.
“The Marajó Fashion Hub has transformed the lives of participants by generating income opportunities, rescuing traditional knowledge and strengthening the self-esteem of the women involved. By professionalizing production, encouraging entrepreneurship and connecting these artisans and seamstresses to new markets, the Hub promotes productive inclusion, economic autonomy and cultural appreciation”, says Renata Rodrigues, manager of Sebrae in Marajó.
At the end of October, Dona Cruz will share her knowledge with other people on the island. She will teach a Marajoara shirtmaking course through Sebrae, which could help keep an embroidery technique alive that few have mastered. The teacher who taught her, known as Baiano, died as a result of Covid-19 during the pandemic. Of the ten students he had, only Dona Cruz completed the course.
Tradition and sustenance
From ancestral ceramics to contemporary catwalks, Marajoara art takes on new forms through the hands of quilombola Rosilda Angelim, 56 years old, artisan and seamstress from Salvaterra, a municipality on the island of Marajó.
Soure (PA), 09/010/2025 – Quilombola entrepreneur Rosilda Angelim. Photo: Marcelo Camargo/Agência Brasil – Marcelo Camargo/Agência Brasil
Before making a living from art, she worked as a teacher and civil servant. After losing her job, she faced financial difficulties and depression, until she discovered a new chance in sewing.
“It was like a push. I started sewing about 30 years ago, but 16 years ago I really found myself in Marajoara graphics”, says the artisan.
“My goal is to promote my culture. I want the world to know Marajó.”
Today, Rosilda leads a studio with six people and produces clothes and accessories that combine fashion and Amazonian identity. His creations are sold in stores in Belém and attract buyers from other regions of the country.
Sustainability is also a central part of the work. The studio uses 100% cotton fabrics and reuses leftover material.
“Nothing stands still. What’s left over, we donate to women who make rugs and other crafts. It’s good for the environment and helps families”, explains Rosilda.
With the approach of the 30th United Nations Conference on Climate Change (COP30), in Belém, the expectation is for an increase in production.
“We have to believe that the COP is bringing good things. Not only for the climate, but for culture in general, our cuisine, our crafts, our biojewelry. We are sticking to this and preparing a greater volume of pieces for the period. My goal is to make money, of course, I don’t want to be a hypocrite, but I also want to promote my culture to everyone”, says the artisan.
Copyright brand
French teacher turned seamstress and entrepreneur. This is the story of Glauciane Pinheiro, 40 years old, who entered the industrial sewing course, “without ever having touched a machine”. The project proposal was aimed at people with experience, but some positions were open for beginners — and that was how she developed the new skill.
“I was unemployed, going through a difficult emotional time. I joined more to distract myself, but I ended up finding myself sewing”, recalls Glauciane.
From then on, the interest in printing and creating collections grew. With the support of her husband, who gave her two machines, she set up a small studio in her bedroom and launched the Mang Marajó brand.
Soure (PA), 09/010/2025 – Entrepreneur Glauciane Pinheiro Lima produces original Marajoara fashion prints at Espaço Mang. Photo: Marcelo Camargo/Agência Brasil – Marcelo Camargo/Agência Brasil
The entrepreneur began producing clothes with original prints and embroidery, some made by families and outsourced groups in the region. Today, she sees local tourism as a concrete opportunity for growth.
“Since preparations for COP30 began, the city has been different. There is more movement, more tourists. I receive people every day, even at night or on Sundays”, reports Glauciane.
“We believe that tourism can sustain Marajó. And I want to make a living from that, from culture and art.”
The common hope of those who make a living from fashion in Marajó is that November will be a turning point for the sector in Pará, with greater visibility and more public investments.
“The main challenges are still limited access to modern equipment, continued technical training, marketing and financing channels. To leverage the situation of these women, it is necessary to strengthen institutional partnerships, expand access to markets (digital and physical), invest in entrepreneurial training and guarantee public policies that support this process of local development with identity”, explains the director of Sebrae, Renata Rodrigues.
*The reporting team at Brazil Agency traveled at the invitation of Sebrae.
