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Walk through Jesus Maria

A humble area with a lot of history, Jesús María is one of the most popular neighborhoods in Havana. Its origins go back to the colonial period, when it grew as a hamlet in the town outside the walls until it was fully integrated into the city.

Its name is really Jesús María y José and it owes it to the hermitage of that denomination built in 1753 on Calle Real in the neighborhood, today named Revillagigedo. It is said that a black woman named Amalia, godmother of Ñáñigos, revolutionaries and persecuted slaves, lived in that artery, and in honor of whom the inhabitants of the place are known as “amalianos”.

Parish Church of Jesus, Mary and Joseph, in the Havana neighborhood of the same name. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.

Although many stigmatized Jesús María as a neighborhood of criminals, thieves and pimps, relevant figures of Cuban history and culture lived on its streets, such as General Quintín Banderas or the musicians Claudio José Brindis de Salas and Barbarito Diez.

La Jardinera, one of the most famous Havana carnival troupes, was also founded there, and institutions such as the Unión Fraternal society —whose honorary president was Juan Gualberto Gomez— and the Athens Club, both for blacks and mulattoes, although with differences in the economic power of their membership, and the Mail Carriers Association.

The Unión Fraternal society, in the Jesús María neighborhood, had the patriot Juan Gualberto Gómez as its president.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
The Unión Fraternal society, in the Jesús María neighborhood, had the patriot Juan Gualberto Gómez as its president. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.

El Callejón del Suspiro, the monument to Father Manuel de Jesús Dobal, parish priest of the Church of Jesus, María y José; the old thermoelectric plant of Tallapiedra and the “elevados” of the railway, are other iconic places of this old Havana neighborhood, hit, like many other places in the city, by deficiencies and the passage of time.

This week our photojournalist Otmaro Rodríguez was on its streets, who offers us his snapshots as a reflection of the present of one of the emblematic neighborhoods of the Cuban capital.

Comprehensive Transformation Workshop in the Jesús María neighborhood.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Comprehensive Transformation Workshop in the Jesús María neighborhood. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
In this building was the Club Atenas, of a class character, today it is a children's circle.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
In this building was the Club Atenas, of a class character, today it is a children’s circle. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Corner of the Jesús María neighborhood, in Havana.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Corner of the Jesús María neighborhood, in Havana. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Former Union Fraternal society, today Casa de Cultura.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Former Union Fraternal society, today Casa de Cultura. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Entrance of the old Unión Fraternal society, which was founded in 1886, on Revillagigedo street.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Entrance of the old Unión Fraternal society, which was founded in 1886, on Revillagigedo street. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
House where General Quintín Banderas, hero of the three wars of independence, lived.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
House where General Quintín Banderas, hero of the three wars of independence, lived. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
House where the famous violinist Brindis de Salás was born.  The property has undergone different modifications, today it is a locksmith.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
House where the famous violinist Brindis de Salás was born. The property has undergone different modifications, today it is a locksmith. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
In this house, the violinist Claudio José Domingo Brindis de Salas y Garrido was born on August 4, 1852.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
In this house, the violinist Claudio José Domingo Brindis de Salas y Garrido was born on August 4, 1852. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Monument to Father Manuel de Jesús Dobal, parish priest of the Church of Jesus, Maria and José.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Monument to Father Manuel de Jesús Dobal, parish priest of the Church of Jesus, Maria and José. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
The old thermoelectric plant of Tallapiedra.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
The old thermoelectric plant of Tallapiedra. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
The Exalted.  The project and construction was in charge of the company The Snare Triest Co. Constructing Engineers Havana City and Hay Foundry and Iron Works.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
The Exalted. The project and construction was in charge of the company The Snare Triest Co. Constructing Engineers Havana City and Hay Foundry and Iron Works. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
The Elevated are also called¨ The Eiffel Tower lying down.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
The Elevated are also called¨ The Eiffel Tower lying down. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Homes in the Jesús María neighborhood.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Homes in the Jesús María neighborhood. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Art Nouveau house in Cárdenas street, Jesús María neighborhood.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Art Nouveau house in Cárdenas street, Jesús María neighborhood. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Art Nouveau house in Cárdenas street, Jesús María neighborhood.  Photo: Otmaro RodríguezArt Nouveau house on Cárdenas street, Jesús María neighborhood.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Art Nouveau house in Cárdenas street, Jesús María neighborhood. Photo: Otmaro RodríguezArt Nouveau house on Cárdenas street, Jesús María neighborhood. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Hotel Alcazar (Arsenal/ Cárdenas and Economía streets), converted into a family home.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Hotel Alcazar (Arsenal/ Cárdenas and Economía streets), converted into a family home. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Book seller in the Jesús María neighborhood.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Book seller in the Jesús María neighborhood. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Callejón del Suspiro, Jesús María neighborhood.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Callejón del Suspiro, Jesús María neighborhood. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Old Casa Fraga, in the neighborhood of Jesús María.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Old Casa Fraga, in the neighborhood of Jesús María. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Former Ten Cents on Monte Street, they were subsidiaries of the North American parent F. W Woolworth Company.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Former Ten Cents on Monte Street, they were subsidiaries of the North American parent F. W Woolworth Company. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Old hotel Isla de Cuba.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Old hotel Isla de Cuba. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
In this building was the Casa de Socorro, today it is a dental clinic.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
In this building was the Casa de Socorro, today it is a dental clinic. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Former Lanza y Lelis materials warehouse, today it is the trade school "Gaspar Melchor de Jovellanos".  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Former Lanza y Lelis materials warehouse, today it is the “Gaspar Melchor de Jovellanos” trade school. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
The Mail Carriers Association was inaugurated in this blue building on Revillagigedo street.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
The Mail Carriers Association was inaugurated in this blue building on Revillagigedo street. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Revillagigedo Street, one of the main arteries of the Jesús María neighborhood.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Revillagigedo Street, one of the main arteries of the Jesús María neighborhood. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.

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