Thousands of Jujeños and tourists celebrated today the start of the so-called Big Carnival and unearthed the mythical Pujllay, the devil of joy who is given free rein for nine days to spread his transgressive spirit.
Despite the unstable weather in most of the celebration points, the charm of the day was not threatened, due to its climate of particular symbiosis between tradition, dance and happy music, totally removed from daily concerns.
Faces covered in talc, twigs of basil in ears, strips of serpentine paper turned into necklaces, colorful felt hats, showers of snow foam and many dressed as Pujllaand they formed part, once again, of the classic postcards, which began to be replicated from noon.
As every year, the most characteristic towns of the Quebrada and Puna Jujeña were observed to be full, among them, Humahuaca, Tilcara, Uquía, Abra Pampa and La Quiaca, which are reached by national route 9, which registered an exodus of cars and special transport services from the early hours of this Saturday.
In Jujuy’s capital, one of the most important calls was reissued in the open space called Ciudad Cultural, located in the northern access to the city, where hundreds of families and groups of friends chose to unearth the Pujllay in the “carnavalódromo”, a space sponsored by the Jujuy group Los Tekis and the provincial government.
From 3:00 p.m., local music bands were giving sound to the celebration, between carnival rhythms and northern cumbia. The meeting point was soon filled with thousands of people, both Jujuy residents and visitors from different parts of the country.
“Carnival is not lived in this way anywhere else,” Martín Villegas told Télam, who arrived from Salta capital to enjoy the unearthing in the province for the first time, which he planned together with other family members, who arrived from the Rioja.
“The good thing here is that people who don’t know each other get together, have fun and nobody has problems with anyone. We are like a big family”indicated, on the other hand, Juan Muñoz, one of the visitors who arrived from the province also known for its great Chaya festival.
Shortly before 6:30 p.m. the expected ritual began, in a cairn that was surrounded by many disguised as devils, the tradition being first to feed Mother Earth (Pachamama) with alcoholic beverages, soft drinks, cocaine and cigarettes, so that she gives permission and be generous with the festivities.
Once the Pujllay was unearthed, represented by a doll, the costumed people unleashed the dance among all those present to the sound of native instruments and the traditional carnival rhythm.
Snow and talc rains tinged the cloudy landscape, until the Los Tekis group ended up offering a repertoire full of carnivalitos, huaynos and sayas, closing the carnivalodrome.
The unearthing of the devil means the beginning of an agenda that during the week, mainly in towns in the north of Jujuy, includes multiple comparsas that will take to the streets to share music and typical drinks such as the fruity saratoga and sangria, during the day, and carnival dances at night.
