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June 4, 2023
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Manaca Iznaga and the most famous tower in Cuba

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About 15 kilometers from the city of Trinity stands what for many is the most famous tower in Cuba: that of the old Manaca Iznaga sugar mill.

The tower, about 45 meters high, is the jewel in the crown of one of the best-known sites in Cuban geography: the vast Valle de los Ingenios. Next to the trinitarian villagethe Valley was recognized in 1988 by Unesco as Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Built on seven levels with the use of geometric shapes ranging from square to octagon, the Manaca Iznaga tower also stands out for a solid structure with spacious arches and an internal staircase from the base to the top.

Between 1815 and 1830 Don Alejo María del Carmen Iznaga, owner of the mill, ordered its construction. The birth of the tower is surrounded by a halo of legend.

The Manaca Iznaga Tower has been immortalized as a symbol of love. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.

According to what is said, its construction was the result of a bet between Alejo and his brother Pedro, who were disputing the love of a young woman. Another, darker legend, affirms that the landowner ordered the tower to be raised to lock his wife in it for having been unfaithful to him.

However, less imaginative versions attribute a more practical origin to the building: to serve as a bell tower and watchtower over the vast grounds of the mill. From it, it is assured, the plantations were monitored for possible fires, escapes and slave revolts and even incursions by bandits and pirates.

Manaca Iznaga Tower, in the Valle de los Ingenios, province of Sancti Spíritus.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Manaca Iznaga Tower, in the Valle de los Ingenios, province of Sancti Spíritus. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.

Meanwhile, their bells were used to call to prayer and marked the beginning and end of the day’s work for the slaves in the cane fields.

Two centuries later, the emblematic tower is still standing, converted into a symbol of Cuban colonial architecture and a witness to the unappealable passage of time. In all its years it has endured the siege of humans and nature, and has persevered to reach today as a promoted tourist attraction and a privileged viewpoint of the valley that surrounds it.

Hacienda of the old Manaca Iznaga mill, seen from the tower.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Hacienda of the old Manaca Iznaga mill, seen from the tower. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.

But Manaca Iznaga is more than its famous tower. The batey of the old mill also preserves other buildings of patrimonial value, such as the house, the farmhouse where the slaves of the endowment lived and the warehouse that served as an infirmary.

As if that were not enough, the community settled in the area is also known for its craft production. Lingerie, embroidery, weaving and working with natural fibers are traditions that retain their vitality there and are another of the attractions of the place for tourists and other visitors. One of the latter was our photojournalist Otmaro Rodríguez.

Bell of the old Manaca Iznaga sugar plantation, near the tower.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Bell of the old Manaca Iznaga sugar plantation, near the tower. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
The Manaca Iznaga Tower in the background.  In front, handmade textile products on display.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
The Manaca Iznaga Tower in the background. In front, handmade textile products on display. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
A woman displays lingerie with handmade embroidery in the Manaca Iznaga area.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
A woman displays lingerie with handmade embroidery in the Manaca Iznaga area. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
At the entrance and inside the old Manaca Iznaga hacienda is the largest lingerie store in the area.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
At the entrance and inside the old Manaca Iznaga hacienda is the largest lingerie store in the area. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Thread and needle work typical of embroiderers and weavers, near the Manaca Iznaga Tower.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Thread and needle work typical of embroiderers and weavers, near the Manaca Iznaga Tower. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
The inhabitants say that in the Valle de los Ingenios are the best embroiderers in Cuba.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
The inhabitants say that in the Valle de los Ingenios are the best embroiderers in Cuba. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Sale of carved skins, at the Manaca Iznaga hacienda.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Sale of carved skins, at the Manaca Iznaga hacienda. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
A girl returns home after attending school in the Manaca Iznaga area, in the Valle de los Ingenios.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
A girl returns home after attending school in the Manaca Iznaga area, in the Valle de los Ingenios. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Manual sugar cane mill, to extract the guarapo, near the Manaca Iznaga Tower.  Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.
Manual sugar cane mill, to extract the guarapo, near the Manaca Iznaga Tower. Photo: Otmaro Rodriguez.

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