La Roca restaurant, on the corner of 21st and M streets, in Havana, lived very few years of full splendor. inspired by the style art deco and designed by two then young architects –one of them was still a student–, Modesto Campos and Hugo D’Acosta Calheiros, the establishment opened in 1957 and was immediately a sensation, with its colored glass and live music.
However, even in the first years of the revolutionary regime and despite its nationalization, it continued to be an obligatory stop for both Cubans and foreigners. The merit resided, in large part, in its privileged location, in the heart of El Vedado, very close to the emblematic Focsa, the Coppelia ice cream parlor and the Habana Libre, Capri and Nacional hotels. But it also retained for a long time the reputation of a popular restaurant, with acceptable food and affordable prices.
A few years ago, it began to decline and, like so many state restaurants, became a place with poor service, questionable food and no incentive.
The interior is remodeled and, although the new decoration left a depersonalized and gloomy atmosphere, the food is tasty, as well as cheap and in national currency.
The same cannot be said today. The daily queues to enter, just before noon, the time the place opens, are already a good auspice. At the door, an employee politely greets customers and seats them at tables.
The interior is remodeled and, although the new decoration left a depersonalized and gloomy atmosphere, the food is tasty, as well as cheap and in national currency.
At 150 pesos they offer rice with tuna, chicken croquettes, ajiaco criollo or Neapolitan spaghetti. The most expensive dishes are grilled lobster (800 pesos), pil-pil cod (600) and fish fillet a la Roca (500), but for a lower price you can eat old clothes (230 pesos). , pork ribs (200) or chicken with fine herbs (350).
Side dishes –rice, salad or beans– range from 40 to 120 pesos and soft drinks –at 80 pesos– are cheaper than in other State establishments, where they reach 150 CUP.
The scarcity spread throughout the island, yes, permeates La Roca. For example, this Wednesday there was no shrimp that is on top of the fish dish, nor was the only dessert offered on the menu, rice pudding.
Against this, we must weigh the grace with which the dishes are presented –which are served very hot, unlike other places–, the speed of the service, the friendliness of the waiters and the good taste of the food. All this, enlivened by a live pianist who plays boleros and other popular pieces from the international repertoire.
What does La Roca do, that it achieves something that the other state restaurants do not? According to regular customers, there is a new cook, “spectacular”. This, by itself, does not explain the secrecy, but what is clear is that there is a place led by the hand of the State in which it is possible to do things well.
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