The atmosphere of uncertainty and seriousness was reflected in the catwalks of women’s fashion in Paris which closes this week, with models parading with covered garments and dark colorswhile in the air pacifist poems or songs were played.
Some participants had expressed their discomfort at an event that rewards frivolity and joie de vivre, but unexpectedly the Fashion Week was up to the moment.
You had to live the parades “with gravity“, asked the president of the French Fashion Federation, Ralph Toledano.
Although the collections had been designed months before, the creators favored the more “protective” pieces, and a solemn aesthetic.
a serious moment
“The world has been going through a serious moment for a long time, fashion has integrated this feeling of seriousness. It is impregnated with the smell of time,” declared fashion historian Olivier Saillard.
Dior For example, he presented a clothing “off-road, very appropriate, almost foreboding”he explained.
The French luxury brand presented airbags in the form of corsets or vests. A gray dress evoked the armor of yesteryear, with shoulder pads and anklets as protection.
Fashion has already lived two hard years, of introspection, because of the Covid-19, considers the Italian Dior woman stylist, Grazia Chiuri.
The war in Ukraine “is much closer to all of us. But the world was already at war. Covid was another war (…), we have lived extremely difficult months “, he indicated.
Balmain also presented padded corsets, creations that seemed bulletproof vests, golden shields.
“My collection may seem to have been inspired by the big headlines, so distressing (…). But it is clear that such a quick reaction would not have been possible,” Balmain stylist Olivier Rousteing acknowledged.
Belgian Anthony Vaccarello, artistic director of Saint-Laurent, He broke for the first time with his “sexy glam” aesthetic to present a poetic parade, at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, to suggest “a moment of reflection”.
in your collection black abounds, long dresses, the tuxedo cut with trousers and sumptuous faux fur coats. Gone is the provocation.
Stella McCartney returned to Paris displaying his now almost legendary commitment to animal welfare. Her women’s proposal is with cheerful colors, but there is no trace of leather, or materials that do not comply with strict environmental controls.
His parade started with a few words from US President John Fitzgerald Kennedy and was closed with the John Lennon and Yoko Ono song “Give Peace a Chance”.
The Japanese yohji yamamoto presented clothing that covers women from head to toe, with layers of fabrics that overlap, giving impression of temporality, of precipitation.
American Rick Owens, addicted to parades with an apocalyptic tone, presented a show accompanied by Gustav Mahler’s Symphony No. 5, a dreamlike and solemn moment.
The artificial mist gave way on its catwalk to silhouettes with extra-long gray suits or oversized coats padded.
