Yesterday, early in the morning, I went for a walk in Mexico City. I took advantage of the first rays of the Sun, when the light is still soft and delicate, perfect for photographing aimlessly through the Historic Center. The hustle and bustle of what is one of the oldest and busiest urban areas in Latin America begins to be felt. The number of people who daily pass through the almost 10 square kilometers that make up this area, full of legends and stories, declared Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 1987, is counted in millions.
In the midst of this wonderful and surreal everyday life there was an image that was repeated, stuck in an improvised way, clearly visible, in dissimilar spaces. A photo of the troubadour Silvio Rodríguez, slightly out of focus, who looks at the camera and clearly holds a small Cuban flag, as if inviting those who observe him to enter his world. It is the poster that announces the troubadour’s concert in El Zócalo, the heart of this impressive city, today, Friday, June 10.
There are many expectations with this recital. It is not for less: the applause of the two sold-out concerts that the author of “Ojalá” gave Monday and Tuesday of this week at the National Auditorium still resounds. 20,000 people filled the Reforma Avenue Theater on both days. Also, as if that were not enough, these presentations have cut short the long wait of 8 years for Silvio’s reunion with his Mexican audience.
Initially, this free concert was scheduled to close the 9th Conference of the Latin American Council of Social Sciences (CLACSO), at the Autonomous University of Mexico. But, the organizers alerted in time about the troubadour’s power of convocation in Mexican lands and changed the headquarters of the Show.
The chosen place was the Plaza de la Constitución, popularly known as El Zócalo. It is the most important meeting point in Mexico City. It is a space that, with its surrounding streets, covers an area of approximately 46,800 m².
The Zócalo is already familiar to Silvio. This will be the fourth time that he appears in this square. The first opportunity was in 2005, then in 2007 and the last, before today, on March 29, 2014, where 100 thousand people sang his songs.
Judging by the comments of many witnesses at the time and the references then published by various media outlets, the 2014 presentation was historic. This concert is part of a select group of the ten shows more conveners held in El Zócalo. The “son of Algeria and Dagobert” shares the list with Paul McCartney, Roger Waters, Manu Chao, Justin Bieber, pixies Y Tacuba Coffee.
The traffic is hellish, thousands of people go from one place to another. A characteristic smell invades. It is the garnacha, that corn tortilla with (chili) sauce and other ingredients such as beans, cream cheese and minced meat that Mexicans eat at all hours of the day in improvised street food stalls on any corner.
I stop to listen to a band blues, which is acting on the sidewalk. Central Mexico is a beautiful madness right now. They are interpreting something John Mayall & the Bluesbreakers, that legendary group that had Eric Clapton as one of its star guitarists. In one passage, the lord of the harmonica begins to improvise. In his variations I think I hear some reference to the trumpets of “A Midsummer Night’s Dream”, that great song by Silvio with AfroCuba, included on his album Causes and chances and published in the eighties. I don’t know, maybe it’s a private suggestion. In that I look well and on the wall, as an improvised scenery of the band of bluesSilvio’s poster inviting us to the appointment in El Zócalo was stuck.
Three hours passed since I went for a walk. Although it was a bit cloudy, technically there was not good light for taking pictures. But, a sublime story to be photographed does not know lighting techniques. It can appear a few steps away, in front of our eyes and regardless of inclement weather.
The stage for the recital has been erected in front of the Metropolitan Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary into the Heavens of Mexico City, the greatest work of colonial architecture on the continent, which began to be built in 1524. To one side is is the National Palace, an architectural jewel and seat of the National Government. Dozens of tents are set up nearby. I see them from afar and I guess they could be Silvo’s followers who have set up camp to ensure a good place tonight to enjoy what will surely be an unforgettable evening. As I get closer, my theory is shattered: those in the dozens of tents are teachers from the state of Michoacán, 300 kilometers from the capital, who have been spending the night for several days to claim back wages and the regulation of Their job possitions.
José Gómez, a secondary school teacher, was the one who put me in the context of the situation. He was with a colleague, playing the guitar, when I interrupted them.
He is 48 years old and has been teaching for three decades. He is a Natural Sciences teacher at the secondary level. “Our claims have been going on for a long time. Teachers always put up a fight when there were governments that were harmful to the country. Now there is AMLO, we support many of his proposals, we accompany them and we understand that change does not happen overnight. It was more than seventy years of looting and corruption. We are aware that in two or three years it is impossible for so many pending issues to be resolved. But here the detail is that we are fighting for our rights and we cannot stop claiming for them”, says José, who teaches Biology, Physics and Chemistry.
In addition to chemical experiments, the process of life on earth, and physical formulas, José shares songs with his students. “Especially sometimes I play songs by Silvio. He is an inspiration for life”, he confesses.
He also points out that he did not know about the troubadour’s concert in El Zócalo. “We found out when we saw the move of the stage assembly. It was a surprise. Our camping is until Friday. We are almost ready to break camp and return to Michoacán. But several of us who are here are going to stay to listen to Silvio. It’s a unique opportunity”, he says with a smile as he plays the first chords of “Little daytime serenade” on his guitar.
I live in a free country
which only
can be free
on this earth,
at this moment,
and I am happy because I am giant.
I love a clear woman
that I love and he loves me
without asking for anything
—or almost nothing,
It is not the same
but it’s the same.
And if this were not enough,
I have my songs
That little by little
I grind and redo
inhabiting time,
how does it fit
to a man awake.
I’m happy,
I’m a man
happy, and I want
forgive me
for this day
the dead
of my happiness.
