Matanzas/In Matanzas, Christmas is felt long before December 24. It is not because of the Christmas carols or the lights—few, intermittent—but because of the counters loaded with impossible colors: candies wrapped in bright paper, imported cookies, chocolates from unknown brands, red apples lined up as if they were museum pieces. It is enough to look into a private cafeteria or an MSME in the center to understand that the party is there, within reach of the eye, although not necessarily within the reach of the pocket.
Idalis works in a private cafeteria in the La Playa neighborhood. From her position, she observes daily how a scene repeats itself that makes her uncomfortable and sad: children who cling to the glass of the counter, parents who look at the prices and lower their voices, decisions that are made quickly to avoid long explanations. This Christmas Eve she will tell her ten-year-old daughter again that there will be no apples or homemade candy. “Every year he asks me for jams, to make him chocolate custard, and I end up crying out of helplessness, because I have that at my fingertips, but I can’t buy it.”
Idalis remembers that in the 90s, shortages had another face. There was little, almost nothing, and the children did not see full display cases or overflowing shelves. Today the lack is more cruel because it is exhibited. In the MSMEs of Matanzas there are merchandise: imported fruits, chocolates, soft drinks, cookies, sorbets. Everything is there, illuminated, labeled, photographable. But prices turn desire into a provocation. An apple can cost 180 or 200 pesos; a small bunch of grapes easily exceeds 3,000; A modest box of jams reaches figures that double or triple the monthly salary of many workers.
Idalis remembers that in the 90s shortages had another face
As the date approaches when Cubans used to gather around the table, Idalis sees dozens of people pass by the counter with a mixture of nostalgia and frustration. “It saddens me to see children asking their parents to buy them an apple. I myself, before spending 200 pesos on that, have to prioritize the daily snack for school,” she says, with a discomfort that she cannot hide. He remembers the stories of his grandmother who spoke of good nights with five different sweets and enough food to treat whoever passed by on the way. “Now we work more and eat worse,” he summarizes.
The numbers add weight to the scene. A recent client paid 7,900 pesos for several packages of cookies, chocolates and sorbets. “That expense cannot be made by a common worker, much less a retiree,” says Idalis. “There is a lot of talk about achievements, but it is omitted that the majority of Cubans cannot eat sweets even once a year.” For her, this December 24 will be a humble dinner, shared with her daughter, without decorations.
On the other side of the counter, Susana, 61, confirms that the journey through the city is daunting. Narváez, Tirry, San Luis have walked, comparing prices, ruling out options. “Peanut bars are up to 1,000 pesos, the large ones,” he says. She doesn’t want to give up the celebration with her elderly parents, so between her and her husband they have assumed all the expenses. “We are close to 25,000 pesos and we don’t have anything out of this world prepared. No one with a salary can afford even the slightest of pleasures.”
On the other side of the counter, Susana, 61, confirms that the tour of the city is daunting
With help sent from abroad by his son, he thought about purchasing from MSMEs, but found prices similar to those of smaller businesses. Only in one place was there a slightly better offer, although the line was so long that the first slots were sold out early. The alternative of buying in dollar stores or making candy at home was also not viable because sugar is very expensive. “For that I would need two or three children helping me from the outside,” he says ironically.
